Coat your style: Expert tips for finding your perfect fit
Crafting a gentleman's style is an art, with the blazer as the canvas. A well-picked blazer enhances an ensemble, complementing the wearer's attributes. A precisely tailored blazer signifies more than clothing—it symbolizes elegance and self-awareness. Hence, details matter, especially in bespoke tailoring. Kabir Mehra, co-founder of Herringbone & Sui, Pangolin & Sugarh, shares insights on selecting the perfect blazer based on various factors.
Based on body type
Mehra advises men with slender and athletic builds to choose a slim-fit, single-breasted blazer that accentuates their natural silhouette without feeling constricting. He recommends moderate lapel width and light shoulder padding to enhance their frame. A single-breasted blazer with a lower stance is recommended to elongate the torso for heavyset builds. It's important to avoid blazers with excessive padding or bulk.
Broad builds should opt for structured shoulders and wider lapel
Those with a broad or muscular build should opt for a blazer with structured shoulders and a wider lapel to balance out the broadness. "Consider a double-breasted style to streamline the torso, but ensure it's not too tight across the chest," recommends the expert.
Based on height
Tall men should choose standard to slightly wider lapels, opting for a two-button style for balance. Average heights look well in both one-button and two-button blazers but ensure the length doesn't surpass the crotch. Short/petite men can benefit from shorter blazers ending just above the crotch, which elongate the legs. A two-button style with a higher stance extends the perceived torso, advises Mehra.
Based on facial structure
Mehra suggests men with square or strong jawlines go for rounded lapels or shawl collars to harmonize with and soften pronounced jawlines, offering a cohesive look. "Angular, peak lapels can introduce lines and angles to counteract the roundness, creating a sophisticated balance for those with oval or round faces." "Wider, notched lapels can add breadth, balancing the verticality of a longer face," he explains.
Fabric, pattern, and colors
Mehra advises that larger-built individuals opt for smoother fabrics such as worsted wool for a sleek look. Slimmer frames can explore textured materials such as tweed or flannel. Darker colors inherently have a slimming effect, while vertical stripes or subtle pinstripes can add height. Conversely, horizontal patterns or checks tend to widen the appearance and are better suited for taller or slender individuals.
'Accessorize thoughtfully'
"Pocket squares, ties, and lapel pins can either elevate or clutter your blazer look. Choose wisely based on the occasion and the blazer's design," cautions the Herringbone & Sui co-founder.
