The secrets behind how restaurants score a Michelin star
The Michelin star process, one of the highest culinary honors, has long been shrouded in secrecy. This elusive distinction features prominently in popular culture, particularly in the new season of Emily in Paris, where Chef Gabriel aims to earn a Michelin star for his restaurant, l'Esprit de Gigi. Despite criticisms of its portrayal of Parisian life, the show accurately reflects the secretive and serious nature of the Michelin star award process.
Michelin Guide: A chef's perspective
Julia Sedefdjian, who became France's youngest Michelin-starred chef at 21, admits that the Michelin Guide process remains unclear even to those in the industry. Sedefdjian noted that the Michelin Guide remains somewhat ambiguous, revealing that there is no visible grading scale used in the process. Given the anonymous nature of the guide's inspectors, chefs themselves may provide the best insight into what it takes to earn a star.
The evolution of the Michelin Guide
The Michelin Guide originated in 1900 as a complimentary guidebook for Michelin tire customers, providing information on refueling stations, hotels, and restaurants. The three-star hierarchy was introduced in 1931 with one star indicating a restaurant worth stopping at, two stars suggesting a detour, and three stars recommending an entire trip. Today's guide remains mysterious with an undisclosed number of inspectors reviewing over 40,000 restaurants in more than 30 countries.
Chefs's strategies for Michelin star success
Chef Maxime Bouttier, who earned his first Michelin star at Geosmine in March 2024, believes certain "codes" can help a restaurant earn a star. These include white tablecloths and soft piano music playing in the background. Similarly, when Julia Sedefdjian opened her Michelin-starred Baieta in Paris in 2018, she invested in beautiful tableware and stocked her wine cellar accordingly. She even chose to open the restaurant where the former Michelin-starred Itineraires once stood.
The Michelin inspectors: An enigma to chefs
In the world of Michelin reviews, chefs are kept in the dark about the inspectors' visits. Julia Sedefdjian explained that the presence of Michelin inspectors is typically unknown until after their visit, as they often do not introduce themselves and, in many cases, remain anonymous throughout the process. This secretive approach is accurately portrayed in popular culture, such as in Emily in Paris and the 2015 film Burnt.
The anticipation of Michelin star announcement
The status of a restaurant's stars is typically revealed at a much-publicized ceremony. Julia Sedefdjian mentioned that, unlike established restaurants, new ones receive a call from someone at the Guide to inform them of their visit. As the ceremony approached for her restaurant Baieta, she doubted receiving a call until an unlisted number appeared on her phone. She recalled her heart racing upon receiving a call from the Guide, announcing that her star would shine again.
The early beginnings of Michelin-starred chefs
Both Julia Sedefdjian and Maxime Bouttier began their culinary journeys at a young age. Sedefdjian's pursuit of a Michelin star started when she was just 14, attending culinary school and apprenticing at the fine dining restaurant l'Aphrodite. Bouttier also shared his desire to cook for a living at 14, leading his mother to encourage him to attend hotel school. He explained that his desire to be in the kitchen stemmed from his frustration with sitting in a chair.
